PRICE 25 CENTS 




Kl® ^ 



YE LET 
BI^OIDEF^Y 



AN D 



ITS FUTURE POSSIBILITIES. 




PUBLISHED BY 

<\ M.Heminway & Sons Silk Co 



EYELET 



EMBROIDERY 



AND 



Its Future Possibilities 



M. HEMINWAY & SONS SILK CO, 

New York Philadelphia 

Chicago San Francisco 



JUN 30 lyub 

OLASS <^ AXC. NQi 

f/'i'ii- 

GUHY B. 




'^t^^ 



yright, 1905, by M. Hem 



: Co., New Vurk 



INTRODUCTORY. 



In response to many incjuiries about Eyelet Embroidery or 
Madeira AVork from the Art Needlework Trade and teachers of 
embroidery throughout the country who are familiar with the several 
books we have published in recent years on stitchery of all kinds, 
we take pleasure in presenting a collection of suggestions on this new 
(old) work properly called "Eyelet Embroidery." Long, compli- 
cated descriptive matter that so often constitutes so many pages of 
fancy work books is conspicuously absent in this book, as experience 
teaches us that illustrations large enough to show detail work are 
more valuable to a novice than flowery language set in type. The 
possibilities of Eyelet Embroidery are not exhausted by any means 
in this issue ; the pages of suggestions given are only forerunners of 
what will be shown in later editions which we shall issue if the popu- 
larity of this style of needlework meets with the favor we confidently 
expect. 

Dealers can be supplied at wholesale rates with many of the 
designs shown herein stamped on suitable fabrics. 

We have no retail department, but will cheerfully refer any lady 
desirous of obtaining the designs, to our customers dealing in them. 

To insure best results in white work with silk we recommend 
Shade No. 689 Blue AVhite. Spanish Floss for fine work. Turkish 
Floss for heavier work. 

Copies of this book sent postpaid on receipt of price, 2.5 cents 
(stamps accepted). 

M. HEMINWAY c^ SONS SILK CO. 



NOTE. 



In our position as manufacturers we cannot undertake to supply stamped 
designs (or finished articles illustrated in tiiis hook) to private parties, but we 
will cheerfully refer any lady to the nearest dealer where they can be obtained. 

Correspondence willi stni-ekeepeis soHcited relatixe to all designs herein 
shown, and relative to our art needlework silks. sani])le cards of which will be 
furnished. 

As a guide and convenience for ladies interested in embroidery work we will 
send, jjost ])aid, sample card of wash-embroidery silks shown, !596 shades, on 
recei]it of half cost. liic. (stamps taken). 

M. HE:MIN\VAY & SONS SILK CO. 

74-76 Greene St., New York, 

716 Arch St., Philadelphia, 

232-234 Fifth Ave., Chicago, 

2?0 Sutter St., San Francisco, Cal. 



List of stitchery publications of M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co. still on hand 
ready for quick mailing. 

Treatise on Embroidery, Crochet and Knitting, Series No. 6, 150 pages, 20 
color-j)late j)ages. Price, including postage. 19c. 

Illustrated instructions for making Purses and Chatelaine Bags, 64 pages. 
Pi'ice. including postage, 10c. 

Heniinways and Ways in Hemming, 40 j)ages, 4.') illustrations. Price, in- 
cluding postage, 10c. 

Eyelet Embroidery and its Future Possibilities, Scries No. 7, 32 pages, 
size, 8x11, profusely illustrated. Price, including postage, 2.5c. 




Design No. 500. 

-IXEX GOWN KMBROIDERED IN WHITE EYELET WORK WITH 

PAR.\SOL TO M.VTCH 



OLD-TIME EYELET EMBROIDERY 



m 



A Remarkable Revival 

|\'EHYWHERE, and on all styles of garments, 
from whole costumes to separate pieces of lin- 
gerie, we find at present the very popular eyelet 
work figuring as the chief decoration. 
It has the charm of extreme simplicity, both in 
design and workmanship, but herein lies a serious pitfall 
for the careless or unwary worker. The very simplicity 
of the method of execution leaves no chance for con- 
cealing defects in complications of curves and stitches ; 
therefore, it must be most carefully done. 

The implements required are a medium-sized needle, 
a pair of sharp-pointed scissors, an embroidery hoop 
and a stiletto. Though the hoop is recommended, better and quicker 
results can be obtained without a hoop. 

The designs usually consist of groups of oval and round disks, 
so arranged as to form circles, festoons, wreaths, etc., and these are 
occasionally embellished by insertions of point d'esprit or Brussels 
net, when the openings are large enough to warrant it. 

A pretty addition to such work is the introduction of the filled satin 
stitch, or what really constitutes French laid work; and with a button- 
holed edge a quite elaborate piece of embroidery may be evolved. 

This style of decoration is particularly well adapted to stocks, 
collars, shoulder capes, shirt-waist sets and flouncings for skirts. 
Eyelet-work is exceedingly dur- 
able, and if well done will last 
a lifetime. In proof of this 
many women can show fine ex- 
amples of the work which arc 
the handiwork of their grand- 
mothers, for a generation or two 
ago it was almost the only stylu 
of fancy work indulged in dur- 
ing leisure hours. 

The cuts on this page shou 
(juite plainly the various steps 
in the process. Almost anyoiu- 
can draw a design in pencil on 
the silk or linen selected for the 
work, although it 
is generally prefer- 
able to have it '' _ 
stamped. / / 
The work is held ( J^^ 
in the left hand v^ \, 
while the right ^., 
hand follows the 
pattern with the 
STILETTO AND SCISSOhS needle. The Hem- 




HEMINWAY'S " PRACTICAL' 
EMBROIDERY HOOP 






Siom 



Fig. B 




Fiff. C 
DETAIL OF EYELET WORK 



AM) ITS FL'TLKF, POSS I H [ I, I T F K S 



inway "Prui'tifiil" obloiiti; lioop is tlic 
most satisfactory one to use for solid 
work. The first step consists only 
in outlining the pattern with a plain 
ruiuiiiiir stitch, such as is used in or 
dinary sewing. The material is cut 
inside each oval or circle, from 
one end to the other, so that tlu 
last step in the process may more 
easilj' be accomplished. This is doiu' 
by folding back on the wrong side 
the clipped edges of the material 
with the needle, while the opening 
thus formed is ovcrhanded with a very 
short, close, slanting stitch. Care 
must be taken to hold the fabric 
stretched according to the thread, or 
else the openings will be misshapen 
and the work drawn in effect, and sat- 
isfactorv laundering will be impos- 
sible. 

The plain outline stitch is the oni' 
usually used for all worked stems. The 
best results in eyelet-work, when done 
in silk, will be obtained by using 
either Spanish or Turkish floss, both 
of wiiich, as made by M. Heminway 
& Sons, are beautifully adapted to 
this work. A heavier effect, especially 
in outline, may be secured by the sub- 
stitution of Tzvisfed Embroidery Silk, but this is 
only desirable in large patterns where a heavy 
silk will add to the general effect. The wide 
variety of shades in which these silks can be ob- 
tained affords the embroiderer unlimited range 
of choice in the selection of colors where vivid 
combinations are preferred to white or subdued 
tones. 




Design No. 507 
ANCY COLLAR SKTS L\ KYELF/l 




Design Xo. 50+ 
TURXOVKR STOCK COLL.^ 




A close following of these few hints will in- 
sure the worker sufficient knowledge to complete 
a very satisfactory and attractive piece of em- 
broidery. 



Design Xo. 503 Desij; 

COLLAR AND CUFF SETS FOR SHIRTWAISTS 




EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Design No. 513 
COLLAR L\ SOLID EFFECT 

The eyelet work lends itself charmingly to the 
decoration of collar and cuff sets. These arc to 



suits as almost the only smart style of 
neckwear, and they are made in infinite 
variety both in white and in colored lin- 
ens. The Heniinway Spanish and Turk- 
ish Hosses come in such exquisite shades 
that very good combinations can be 
made with the colored linens. On the 
natural linen color — tan or fawn — the 
Oriental combinations of rather soft, but 
hrigiit, colors are possible, while two 
shades of blue or green are very dainty 
on the natural linen color. On cream 
linen — the unbleached color, which is so 
artistic — any color may be used, while 
on white the pure white embroidery, 
while daintiest, is yet only the beginning 
of the good suggestions one can make. 

The solid embroidery, as combined with 
eyelets, shows the rich effect of the silk to 
great advantage. The collars have always 




Deiijiii No. 505 
K.MBHOIDEKKD LLVKX COLLAR 



l)c,sif;n No. 513 
>RETTY SHIRTWAIST SET 



be worn th 


is summer and during tlic autumn 


and wiiittr 


witli sliirt waists and sliirt-waist 




Design No. 511 
SET FOR A CHILD'S COAI 




AX ATTRACTIVE ROUND COLLAR 



POSSIHII.ITIKS 






L'KXOVER COLLAR AND CUFF SET 

a buttoulioled edge of silk, sometimes plain and 
again scallops or graceful curves. The turnover 
collar, No. 64(8, on page 10, in the group illustra- 
tion, has a particularly pretty shape. The little 
opening at the front allows the ribbon worn under- 
neath, and showing its color through the eyelets, 
to be tied in a smart little bow at the neck. Collar 
No. G-tO, on page 10, is arranged also for wear- 
ing with a ribbon tied at the front, and when 
tiie embroidery combines in tone with this riI)bon 
the finish of the costume is complete. 

On the preceding page. Design No. 508 is a clever 
arrangement of circles done in eyelet work, com- 
bined with a double scalloped edge in buttonhole — 
a long scallop oi' festoon with a scalloped edge. 

The set for a child's coat, whicli 
is numbered 511, on page 8, may be 
most effectively made on pique or 
heavv rouiid-tlircad linen. Tiii> 



iC^^. 



[Y 



This 


cushion co\ 


er is made of fine 


inen of th 




cicherl rm 


nd thread variety 
ydesignof garlands 


and is en 


rni.le 




and eyelet 








hthele.nvc 


nwl.i 


embroidery 


like the French laid work. Tl 


dge. 


button-hole 


d in a festooned sc 


allop. 



FANCY STOLE COLLAR IX OVALS AND CIRCLES. 



.should be worked in Turkish Floss, 
in a light color or white. In the case 
of a set to be used with a dark cloth 
coat a bright color might make an 
effective contr.ist. The edge pat- 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




EYELKT EMBROllJEKV COLLARS AND CUFF.'- 



tern is particularly pretty as well as giaceful. 

Set No. .512, which consists of a front band, 
necktie, collar and cuffs for a .shirt waist, is very 
original. The severely simple design of the four- 
pointed star and the plain scallop is most artis- 
tic. The embroidered linen stock collar, No. 
.505, is in quite another style, with its elaborate 
flower forms of eyelets of varying shapes, with 
little leaves in solid embroidery, while No. .51 3 
is all in the solid work, which shows up the luster 
of the Heminway embroidery silks to such ad- 
vantage. These are all shown on page 8. 

For coat collars for women and young girls, 
the simple and elaborate fonns of eyelet work are 
mucli used. Such fi set of collar and cuffs as is 
illustrated on a clotli coat on page 9, for in- 



st UK I, adds much to the smart- 
in >s of a plain tailored suit. It 
kups the collar and cuff edges 
titsh and new for autumn, and 
IV ilways cool and dainty. The 
pitttin shown here is the simple 
double-scallop with one punched 
i\(.kt in each scallop. The 
h(a\y Turkish floss is best for 
such embroidery. 

Sj)rinish Floss, which is finer 
m weight, is better for such 
puc(s as the pointed eyelet col- 
1 u designs shown on page 9, 
iiid for the edge Twisted Em- 
Ijioidtry Silk is often preferred. 

As applied to suits, the eyelet 
iiiibroidery is really in its natu- 
1 d field. Exquisitely dainty 
_\()kcs, undersleeves and flounces 
w I u made by those grand- 
motlicrs of the present genera- 
lion who set the fashion in eye- 
it I work fifty years ago. The 
|)ittcins now used are really 
()ii!\ adaptations of the old-time 
(l( signs, and on some charming 
lie tt garment, with new design of 

I iiibroidery,one will often recog- 
nize <i spray or a flower which is 
i(l( ntical with those on the pieces 
«i have treasured so cai'efully. 

Those earlier workers did not 
h i\( the perfect Heminway silks 
lit to (lay, and so, though their 
di-iniis were good and the work 

I I is la ited so long, it lacked the 
liisttr and finish that are now 
possible. 

The linen suit, which is pho- 
tographed as a frontispiece for this book, is a 
model which has been copied with most strik- 
ingly smart effect in the heavy pongee, which is 
one of the handsomest materials in this year's 
list of fashionable silks. With skirt and coat 
and parasol to match, all adorned with an at- 
tractive design in eyelet embroidery, one has the 
smartest costume imaginable. This is one of the 
old-fashioned patterns revived in a more grace- 
ful form than it used to wear. The long, sweep- 
ing curves of the branches are particularly artis- 
tic. The whole design is simply an arrangement 
of oblong eyelets and a plain, heavily-worked 
stem-stitch connecting them. 

On page 7 there is one illustration of a style 
of emhroidcrv which is much in vogue in com- 



AND ITS FUTURE POSSIBILITIES 



binution witli the cyukt work. It 
is called Jewel embroidery, becmise 
the round dots arc heavily worked 
in floss of soft, rich tints and out- 
lined with a gold-coloretl thread, 
thus giving the effect of set uncut 
jewels. The peculiar richness of 
the luster of the Heminway flosses 
is particularly, well adapted to this 
work. 

Flower forms of all sorts are pe- 
culiarly the property of eyelet 
work. Sometimes the whole flower 
will have its petals made of eyelets, 
and again the flower will be out- 
lined with the familiar Kensington, 
or long-and-short stitch, or an 
over-and-over stitch, and the cen- 
ter will be filled in with the 
eyelets, the leaves also being in tlie 
openwork eff^ect. Such a design is 
the waist on this page. It is a pat- 
tern which is suitable alike for linen 
or silk, but in silk it is especiall3' 
rich and effective. The wheat de- 
sign, No. 520, page 12, too, is a 
good one for heavy pongee or 
corded silk waists. The elaborate 
pattern of embroidery, and the 
heavily scalloped edge and fancy 
buttons, give much chance for 
rich effects. Turkish floss may be 
used for this heavy embroidery, 
and its beautiful luster will be 
found most attractive and durable. 

Very dainty in pattern is the set, 
No. 19-tO, page 12, of collar and 
cuffs to be worn with colored gowns. 
The work may be done in white 
or colors to match the gown, or in 
a lighter shade to tone with it. 
Sometimes such a design is carried out on col- 
ored linen with the embroidery in white silk, and 
this is quite as effective as the white groundwork. 
The foliage sprays are done in French laid work, 
filled so that the embroidery stands up liigh from 
the linen. The buttonholing, too, is filled with a 
running stitch in heavy thread. The eyelets are 
quite small^ — mere punched holes made with the 
stiletto and closely worked around. 

The costume of suit and hat to match is more 
than ever popular just now, and the eyelet cm- 
broidery is so well suited to adorn such a cos- 
tume that it is small wonder that one sees it more 
on really smart and expensive gowns than any 
other style of decoration. Its adaptation to hats 




VX EL.VBOUATE SIIIRTWAI.ST IX EYELKT AXU FREXCH 
EMBROIDERY 



is a recent innovation, and one that has taken a 
strong hold on the fancy of women of good taste. 
These hats are made of silk and of linen, and are 
so shaped that they may be taken apart and 
laundered or dry-cleaned. The hat has a round 
brim and a round crown, which, after being em- 
broidered in an elaborated design, are pressed 
and mounted on a wire frame. Sometimes there 
is a trinmiing of artificial flowers, and again only 
a big bow of soft ribbon is tied around the crown 
of the hat. A heavily embroidered scallop fin- 
ishes the edge of the hat-brim and sometimes of 
the crown as well. I-arge and small flower forms 
are the customary patterns for these hat em- 
broideries : thcv are more used than the more con- 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Design No. 520 
AN EMBROIDERED SHIRTWAIST 



hand-made tucks combine well with the hand- 
embroidery, and supply the fulness needed. 

In some of the designs of waist patterns a 
most effective combination of eyelet work, 
French embroidery and filling — in stitches like 
the Danish Hedcbo work — is seen. In the little 
cut-out squares the little worked Greek crosses 
are made, as shown in these waist patterns, by 
carrying threads of silk across the open space, 
from corner to corner, crossing in the center, and 
other threads from the middle of each side. 
These four threads are caught together in the 
center with a knot such as is used by lacemakers, 
and then the threads are woven together, or 
bound over, two and two, by carrying the thread 
with which the knot has been made over one and 
under the other, and back and forth thus until 
the arm of the little cross has been worked out 
to tlie desired length. Then the needle is run 
back to the center on the wrong side of the work, 
;ind another arm of the cross is begun in the 
siune w^ay, until all four are finished. Some- 
times a little heavier cross is worked by having 
two threads in each side space of the square in- 
stead of one, thus giving three threads to work 
over for each arm instead of only two. 

These combinations of several different styles 
of embroidery on one piece arc quite in line with 



ventional designs. The stems and 
leaves, as in the same work used for 
other purposes, are done often in solid 
embroidery. 

In shirt-waist patterns — which are, 
of course, the garments w'hich most 
appeal to the average woman — there 
is infinite variety. The woman who 
has not a waist with eyelet embroidery 
this year is quite out of the fashion- 
able "swim," and most of the hun- 
dreds of thousands of women to whom 
dress is an important matter have 
many, instead of one. Than the lin- 
gerie w'aist no fashion was ever more 
convenient, and it has undoubtedly 
come to stay, as has the shirt-waist 
fashion, which was so much derided a 
few years ago. 

These thin waists are exquisite in 
India and Japanese silks, and the 
work put into them is not a matter 
of one season, for it will last indefi- 
nitely if it be well done. It is worth 
while to use good material when so 
much work is to be expended. liittl" 




Design Xo. 1940 

COLLAR AND CUFF SET OF SOLID EMBROIDERY AND ' 

BUTTONHOLE WORK OX PIQUE, RELIEVED BY 

PUNCH HOLES THROUGHOUT THE DESIGN 



AMI ITS Fl'TURE POSSIIUI.T 




A SHIRTW A 



i IMBKOIDF.RV 



])ro.sciit fiisliioiis, wliic'li unite vdrious makes of and fine Fruncii cnibroiik'ry on nainsook are 

lace aiul cnihroidery in one garment, and con- dainty in tlic extreme, but with the constant 

sider the effect riciicr tlian wliere one style alone wasliing to which they must be subjected, any^ 

is used. tiling so delicate is doomed to speedy destruction, 

Tlie iver-usoful. and now universally-worn whereas eyelet embroidery is in itself eminently 

cliemisitte, is another ])articularly good field for substantial and lasting, and therefore worth the 

(inhroidirv. 'llic chemisettes of delicati^ lace doing. These chemisettes have the fronts and 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Design No. 27ti'2 
CORSET COVER 

This graceful pattern in Violets is suitable for either 
solid or eyelet embroidery. The Initial Medallion as shown 
in the illustration is an application of the Ready-Embroid- 
ered Kaufraann " Wasche-Medallions," which can be pro- 
cured of dealers in Art Needlework materials in various 
styles and sizes. 

collars decorated with the eyelet pattern, and 
also the cuffs of the undersleeves to be worn witli 
them. All of the popular patterns may be aj) 
plied to such a purpose. 

For dainty "Frenchy" underwear the popular 
eyelet is also suitable. In the reaction from 
machine-made laces and insertions the rush for 
liandwork has been the means of bringin<^ 
French embroidery and this revived old English 
style of work into great favor among persons of 
refined taste. It is applied to nightgowns, 
chemises and corset covers with good results. 
Instead of the much-abused and overworked 
machine-made beading, eyelets — long, narrow 
ones — are worked in succession where ribbons 
are required, and are much more durable tlian 
lace or thin nainsook headings. 

At waist and neck this openwork for the ril)- 
bons is provided, while a firm, well-worked but- 
tonhole stitch makes a durable edge which will 
outwear many times any of the flimsy laces so 
much used in the past. 

No costume nowadays is considered complete 
without its belt to match, and even buttons are 
worked to match some of the embroidered gowTis 
and shirt-waist sets. The belts are particularl% 
pretty when made of linen and worked in a pat- 
tern to match the gown. As a rule, the design 
merely appears across the back, but sometimes a 
few sprays, or tendrils, creep around to the sides 



and front. Heavily-bound eyelets are worked 
for the tongue of the buckle to pass through, 
and a strap of the linen or silk is sewed across 
at the left side, as on the leather belts, to hold 
the end in place. Some belts are wide at the 
back, with a simple dotting of embroidered eye- 
lets, and at a few inches from the buckle are 
sewed into a narrow pointed piece of the material 
which buckles in front. This front strap of such 
a belt may have a heavy spray of flowers for 
decoration, to match the waist. 

These linen belts are made in all colors and 
are for sale in great variety. But the ready- 
made article seldom gives the satisfaction that 
is derived from the work of one's own hands, and 
much better designs and finer work naturally are 
the result of careful attention to detail. 

The same eyelet designs are seen on the belts 
of heavy silk, satin and peau de sole. These are 
often beautifully mounted and fine enough to be 
worn with handsome costumes. 

Another field for the popular embroidery is 





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Desijrn No. .5 
WAIST 



AND ITS FUTURE POSSIBILITIES 




DesiKn N'o. oOli. 
WAIST 



on parasols. Among tlie daintiest creations of 
the Paris modistes, exhibited in New York, 
were the parasols of openwork embroidery, 
either unlined or lined with a contrasting color. 
For use with the white linen suits, the white para- 
sols are very dainty and most unquestionably 
smart. But the glare of the sunlight through the 
white linen is a little trying to the eyes, so a lin- 
ing of silk in a soft color is often used. 

In pongee in its many shades there are charm- 
ing parasols, and in colored linens, too. 

The hats are variously made up — those of 
linen with the eyelet embroidery. The simplest 
form is the one with Tam-o'-Shanter crown and 
flat brim, the frame somewhat on the sliape of the 
old-fashioned poke-bonnet. The brim is flat and 
the embroidered piece is laid flat over it, while 
the wires are entirely hidden bj' a shirring of 
mull underneath. 

Another pretty style of hat is that illustrated 
on page 19, in the lower left-hand corner. It has 
tlie same Tam-o'-Slianter crown as the other 



style, but the brim, instead of being a flat, round 
one, is a plain, straight ruffle of embroidery 
plaited in to fit the crown. The ruffle is double, 
the wires being hidden between the two parts. A 
broad, soft ribbon is tied around the crown and 
knotted in a big graceful bow at the front. Noth- 
ing can be more becoming to a young and fresh 
face than such a hat. 

In cases where the hat is to be made with a flat, 
square crown, the crown part of the embroidery is 
often finished with a scalloped edge like the brim, 
and this piece is laid on flat, the rise of the crown 
being covered with a plain hand of linen and con- 
cealed by the trimming of flowers or ribbon. 

In summing up the subject of eyelet work one 
cannot say too nuich on the question of the impor- 
tance of neatness. If the embroidery is allowed 
to lie about while in the diff'erent stages of its 
development, if it is handled and worked over 
with soiled or rough fingers, it will never look 
fresh and dainty, and no amount of laundering 
will give it the new look that is prized in a deli- 




Uesi>rn No. j^:>/ 
WAIST 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 



cate piece of work. The same advice that is 
given to those wlio enihroider in other styles, in 
flowers and elaborate color designs, applies to this 
embroidery. See that your hands are smooth and 
clean. If there are rough places in the skin 
soften the hands by washing in warm water and 
i-ub the rough places with a piece of pumice. 
Otherwise tlie silk will catch and be sadly pulled 
and roughened. If the hands have a tendency to 
perspire keep beside you a little flannel bag of 
powder and wipe them with this once in a while. 
See that your thimble, too, has no rough places 
to fray the thread. 

A practical plan, in making a dress with eye- 
let embroidery trimming, is to do the embroidery 
on separate bands, so that when the dress wears out 
or goes out of fashion as to general make, the 
•work of the embroidery will not be lost. Always 
a waist will give out under the arms and a skirt 
around the hem before it is used up otherwise. It 
is against this time that the separate band schenie 
is planned. And many of the prettiest and 
smartest models which have been imported from 
Paris, the fount of fasliion, have been linen 





CHEMISETTE OF EYELET WORK 



Design Xo. .5:^3 
'OXGEE SHIRT-WAIST SVt'T 



or silk dresses with eyelet embroidery bands on 
waist and skirt. 

These bands may be combined charmingly 
with tucks, aiul under the tucks the seams may 
be hidden so tiiat the fact that the band is a sep- 
arate piece of material need not be evident. Or, 
on the other hand, the band may be frankly ad- 
mitted, and may be put on with feather-stitching 
or French knots or plain machine stitching. The 
latter is not advisable, particularly, as the smart 
fad is to have no machine stitching appear on 
the gowns that are hand-embroidered — therein 
lies the distinction between the hand-made and the 
machine-made garment. 

These same bands of embroidery, as well as the 



AM) ITS FUTUHF, I'OSS I B 1 1. IT I KS 



material einbroick'red in a pattern especially 
for the article in question, arc much used for 
children's frocks. Some of the daintiest 
little dresses for girls, and collars and cuffs 
for Russian suits for boys, are those of eye- 
let embroidery. The collar and cuff sets are 
most popular and are seen on little boys' and 
girls' coats in great variety of shape and 
pattern. Pique and heavy linen are most 
used as the foundation. 

This collar fashion is not confined to tlu> 
children alone^ for on women's coats are in- 
numerable shapes and styles of collars of 
pique and linen. 

In the usual waist set, so called, there are 
included a front band, a collar and necktie, 
a pair of cuffs and a belt, all embroidered 
to match. The plainest shirt waist may be 
made fine enough for any use by such ap- 
pointments, and a simple India silk or pon- 
gee waist made on the shirt-waist plan, whicli 
may be washed over and over, will seem 
like a fine impoi-ted garment if it is worn 
with a set of handsomely cml)roidered acces- 
sories. Take, for instance, a white waist and 
make collar, cuffs, belt and straight band 
for the front, Avith an effective design in col- 
ored embroidery. Such a pattern as that 
.shown on the chemisette. No. .^SS, page 16, 
would be easilj' copied and applied to such 
use. The chrysanthemum may be reduced in 
size and the effect of foliage given in the 
openwork. Work this pattern on your bands 
in several shades of soft pinks, with the 
stems and outlining of the eyelets in a dull 
green and your waist will he one of the pret- 
tiest imaginable. 

Or, make your waist in sur})lice style, as is so 
much the fashion now, and wear with it a sep- 
arate chemisette like this same No. 522. With 
the colored embroidery you have a very rich ef- 
fect, and the same waist may be made to do duty 
for many occasions by the change of this chemi- 
sette merely. Several such articles arc a necessary 
part of every well-dressed woman's wardrobe. 

And for use in autumn and winter, with silk 
waists and wool shirt waists, one cannot have too 
many of these ready-to-wear, hand-made acces- 
sories. They will very much simplify the dress 
question. All colors in heavy and fine embroidery 
may be used for such work, and in the Hcminway 
list of colors will be found all that the heart of 
woman could desire. 

Eyelet embroidery has been very generally ap- 
j)]ied to children's garments lately, and because 
of its durability it is likely to grow in popularity 







CORSET COVKK DKSIGX 

for this purpose. There are charming little frocks 
of linen and gingham so decorated, and many 
other exquisitely dainty garments. The collars 
are numbered in legions, and in variety of design 
they are almost as great in numbers. The com- 
binations of tendrils in outline stitch and flowers 
and leaves in eyelets are very attractive, and more 
conventional designs in festoons of eyelet-holes 
are equally effective. As a rule the edges of these 
collars are finished with heavy buttonhole stitch in 
scallops. The collar design. No. .510, page 21, 
has a very pretty edge of embroidered scallops 
with an eyelet hole in each scallop. 

A somewhat similar design is shown in the 
pillow cover, design No. 538, page 21, which 
is planned to be used in a baby's carriage. 
In this pattern, however, the scallop lias 
smaller scallops on its edge, and in each large 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Top 
Design No. 535 
EYELET HAT 



scallop are three little eyelets in a group. 
The size of the cover is 10 x 14 inches. 
Suitable materials for making it are 
pique, linen or linen lawn. It is made in 
the shape of an envelope, only the flap being em- 
broidered. The sides are stitched up and the 
pillow, with covering of pale blue or pink silk, 
is slipped into the case and the flap buttoned 
down with a tiny lace button. The edge may be 
finished with scallops, edged witli Honiton lace 




EYELET HAT FINISHED 



Rim 
Design No. 525 
DESIGN FOR EYELET HAT 



braid worked with white Spanish Floss. The at- 
tractive feature of the case is that it may so 
easily be slipped off" the pillow and laundered 
without any trouble. 

The more conventional flower 
forms appear in a baby's cap, 
design No. 531, page 21. This 
is verj' rich when made of heavy 
white corded silk, with the em- 
broidery in Spanish Floss. A lin- 
ing of soft mull, ir) white or in a 
pale color, or, for winter, a heavy 
quilted silk lining, makes this a 
most useful and durable cap. 

The bootees shown on page 23, 
design No. 533, are the latest 
style for babies. These little soft 
silk or cashmere shoes are used for 
babies now much more than the 
knitted and crochet socks, espe- 
cially after the child begins to 
wear short clothes. They arc made 
of soft silk, rather heavy in qual- 
ity, and have a buttonholed edge 
and a pattern in eyelets. They arc 
sewed to a soft little sole and are 
most comfortable for the child. 

Of the making of babies' 
sacques there is no end, and there 



VXD ITS FUTURE POSS I H 11, UI' IK S 




Rim 
Design Xo. .V.>7 
KYELET HAT 

seems to be no prospect of the original designs 
failing to increase and multiply. To these sacques 
tills embroidery lends itself particularly well, be- 
ing as simple or as elaborate as one wishes. The 
Nightingale pattern, which is in a general way 
just a circle with an opening at the front, and 
slits up the sides, which are so tied with ribbons 
as to form little sleeves, is very popular. It re- 
quires no scams, which is best for babies' gar- 
ments. 

Tiie little baby articles are among the daintiest 
things to embroider in eyelet designs. This style 
of embroidery is particularly suited to babies' 
caps and other belongings. Tiie little cap on page 
20, design Xo. .509, is just tlic size for a baby's 
first cap. Tiie design on the front, on the crown 
and on tiie tie ends is the same as that on the 
round collar illustrated on same page. They ai'e 
worked in eyelet holes and stcm-stitch with little 
bars across the extra long, pointed holes. The pil- 
low case is made with an odd little border of triple 
eyelets in thcscallo])s and a ;j,ia((ful flower design. 



Top 
Design No. 527 
\ DESIGX FOR EYELETS AXD 
M .STITCH OXLY 




'vitl%^ 







"c" 






■ 9 


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v,'c 




V • 










; ^'>^ 






^ 


. \ 








' 


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\*, 










\ ' 






1 ' 


/i- 


'■. ^\,f 








_• 




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e-'-J 


.''^' 





KxMBROIDERED HAT WITH KUI.I. BRI.M 

See pace 15. 



Rim 
Design No. 536 
EYELET HAT 

Bibs and carriage parasol covers for ba- 
bies, and charming sets of pillow-cover, lap- 
robe and carriage-strap, arc cmliroidercd to 

match in eyelet de- 

signs. These are usu- 
ally provided with a 
lining of thin silk, all 
three being alike in 
color. 

The uses to which 
eyelet embroidery 
may be a p p 1 i e d 
in pretty table linen Top 

are m an}'. They Pesijrn No. 5-36 




EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Ofsign No. +9!) 
LADIES' BELT 



vary in style from the simple pattern which deco- 
rates the scalloped edge of the small doily to the 
most elaborate centerpiece with a lace edge and 
flower-bestrewn surface. Any of the heavy cotton 
or linen laces is appropriate for edging these 
table linens, and heavy solid embroidery in white 
silk is much used in combination with the eyelet 
work. 

The first design shown on page 24, No. 535, is 
a very dainty one of eyelet work and feather- 
stitching. The detail of the work is illustrated 
on page 26. By a little study of the section of 
the pattern shown there it will be understood 
without any difficulty. There is a delightful vari- 
ety about the eyelets, which are shaped in three 
different ways — round, oval and pointed. The 
feather-stitch pattern which connects the flower 
forms and edges of the piece is anotlier pretty 
change from the usual stem-stitch. Inside tlic 
edge row of feathei'-stitching is a single line of 
embroidery. This is done by the double outlining 
stitch as follows : The line is first worked over by 
plain outlining, as described and illustrated on 
page 6 of the "Treatise on Embroidery, Crochet 
and Knitting," published by M. Heminway & 
Sons, and then the thread is carried over the 
stitches again the opposite way and caught 
through each stitch, but not through the linen. 
This makes a heavily-raised line. The eyelet- 
holes in the border should be worked before the 
row of feather-stitching is put in. The border 
is a very original one and therefore most attrac- 
tive. The edge is the plain buttonhole stitch, but 
in an odd-pointed scallop, alternating three and 
four points to the curve. 

The grouping of the violets is the main dis- 
tinction of the second centerpiece. Such patterns 
are particularly good for plain white work, for 
the binding of the ej'elet-holes stands up and 
gives the rich and heavy effect which is necessary 
where there is no contrast of color. 

An original toiicli shows in the border of this 



design. No. 2403, on page 24, also. The scallops 
are grouped into three small ones and then one 
long one, which gives a pretty variety. The sprays 
of French embroidery between the bunch of vio- 
lets are unusually graceful. Twisted embroidery 
silk and Spanish Floss are the silks to be used for 
such a piece of work as this. 

A very elaborate design into which eyelet-work 
enters somewhat is shown in the sofa pillow, de- 
sign No. 734p, illustrated on page 25. The model 
as illustrated, is worked in eyelet and feather- 
stitch on a foundation of gray huckabuck, worked 
entirely with Mount Mellick'silk, size "G," color 
\o. (i89, blue white, trinnned with heavy white 
cotton cord and tassels. 

Considering the simplicity of the design, 
which is so easy of execution, this pillow is most 
;ittractive and sensible. 

On page 27, the photographed centerpiece. 
No. 920, is a remarkably handsome design and 
piece of work. Nothing could be prettier or bet- 
ter calculated to show off the quality of the 
embroidery and of the silks used in it than this 
design. There is a very dainty edge of long- 
and-short buttonholing to which the lace is 
sewed. The over and over embroidery — in fact, 
the whole thing — is done with Heminway Turk- 




Back 

Design No. 499 

LADIES' BELT 




BABY'S EMBROIDERED CA 



AM) r|-S IT'ITRK FOSSIIUI.ITIES 




Ijesijtn No. Ujlo 
CHILD'S COLLAR L\ EYELET WORK 

Xeck measure, 11 y, inches; width, Gy^ inches. 



ish FI0S.S. The sniootli-laid stitches of the 
petals of the chrysanthemums and the grace- 
ful leaves show the texture of the floss to the 
hcst advantage, and in the heavily-worked 
solid dots the effect is extremely rich. The 
stems and exquisitely-curving tendrils are 
worked in stem-stitch, or outline-stitch, which 
is made by merely taking each stich half-way 
back beside the preceding one. Here and there in 
tlie design occur long spirals which are worked 
in feather-stitch with the same silk. The eyelets 
arc embroidered with the Turkish Floss, be- 
ing merely holes punched with the stiletto and 
carefully overhanded with a close, slanting stitch. 
A good, ratlier heavy quality of round-thread 




limn sliould he used for 
such work. 

The Sorrento tabh' 
cover, which is design No. 
5^6, on page 27, is a 
beautiful example of 
openwork. It has not only 
the graceful pattern but 
also tiie flower and leaf 
of cut-out work, with 
fine filling-in of Sor- 
rento bars, as used in 
lace-making. The center 
of the flower is filled in 
witli three Renaissanci' 
lace rings. The edge of 
this piece should be es- 
pecially observed. Tht' 
long festoon of scallops, 
with the clover-leaf de- 
sign at the point, is un- 
usual and extremely 
good. 

iMuch bolder in line is 
the Design No. .537, on 
page 26. The flower 
liere — a conventional- 
ized one — has a center 
of worked dots and an 
edge or fringe to match, 
with a striking circle of 
eyelets around just in- 
side this fringe on two 
of the flakers, and ,1 




BABY'S CAP 
Design No. 531 




Design No. 510 
CHILD'S ROUND COLLAR 



Design No. 538 
BABY'S PILLOW COVER 

worked scallop around the eyelets in the 
others. The open design of the foliage is es- 
pecially pretty, and the border has the charm of 
entire novelty. All the way around the edge it is 
a shallow buttonhole stitch, but the varied line is 
tlie main feature. 

For finger-bowl doilies. ,)late doilies and turn- 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Design No. IjOO/S 
BABY'S BIB 




BABY'S BIB 
Design No. S30 



bier doilies the simple and even the elaborate 
flower designs of eyelet-work and French em- 
broidery may be very successfully used. The it because of the smaller size to be covered. Eye- 
pattern is usually smaller for these pieces than let embroidery is particularly effective for sets 
for the centcri)ioces, and, of course, there is less of of centerpiece, plate doilies and small doilies for 




Design No. L'+OOs. 
iABY'S NIGHTINGALE OR SACQUE 



L. OF C. 



AXI) ITS FUTURE POSS I B I LUI' I KS 








Design No. 533 
A CHILD'S PIQUE COAT 



BABY'S B(J()T1-;KS 



tumblers, wlicre tliesi' are to be used on a pol- 
ished mahogany or oak tabic without the usual 
damask cloth. The rich beauty of the linen and 
of the silk embroidery with the gleam of polished 
wood through the openwork is most attractive. 

Some very effective table-covers are made after 
the style of the sofa pillow, design No. 734P, 
page 25, with the design of feather-stitching. 
Soft canvas cloth is used for these, or denim or 
satin sheeting, and the same idea has been applied 
to heavy window curtains of satin sheeting. No 
amount of embroidery can be too much in these 
days of enthusiasm for hand-work. The hand- 
somest hangings are those oa which there is an 
abundance of jiand-enihroiderv. 



/'rV.- 



'-^■^ 




Design Xo. o'.U 

COLLAR 

A CHILD'S COAT WITH EMBROIDERED COLLAR AND CUl'FS 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Design No. 535 
EYELET CENTER 

Bedspreads, too, are often worked now, in 
these rich and striking designs, on Hnen or on 
colored materials. The design of a room may be 
most charmingly carried out in this way. And 
there is no more satisfactory fancy work for a 
woman of taste and energy than the beautifyhig 
of her home with her own work or making gifts 
for her friends. One woman with a small amount 
of skill with her pencil has sketched on her cur- 
tains as a border a conventionalized design of 
chrysanthemums adapted from her wall paper, 
and has embroidered these in soft coral-pink 
shades on a pale sage-green ground, with a run- 
ning design of eyelets intersecting the flower pat- 
tern and giving the light effect that is a great 
advantage to tiie appearance of the curtains. It 
is in this adaptability of combination with other 
styles of embroidery that the future possibihties 
of eyelet embroidery lie. Although at the present 
time it is immensely fashionable in itself, this 
vogue may not be so long as to make sucli lasting 
things as heavy window draperies a sensible in- 
vestment of time if they were to dc]ic nd tor tli( iv 
beauty on the eyelet-work alone. Bnl m cuniiinc 
tion with the "decorative designs in Freucli or 
South Kensington stitches, there is a marvelously 
fine effect produced. These heavy curtains, hang- 
ing over thin ones of lace, allow the light to pierce 
these eyelet-holes and so are much liandsomer than 
if only worked in tlie "blind embroidery," as it is 
often called to distinguisli it from open-work. 

This same clever woman has planned and made 
for a summer cottage a set of bedroom curtains 
over which the same rose-vine as seems to be 



clambering over the wall of her room droops in 
delicate sprays, stray roses and occasional 
dropped petals, while a dainty border hangs all 
tlio way down the front of each curtain, the edge 
of the muslin being finished in a scallop with 
groups of open-work eyelets, and here and there 
a little group of eyelets through the width of the 
cvirt.iin. A bedspread of the same design matciies 
tliese curtains, and on the dressing table are sheer 
linen covers with the same .style of embroidery. 
A daintier nest could not be imagined. 

A similar idea in violets has been carried out 
by a well-known firm of decorators, and one 
young girl is planning to live in a cool and rest- 
ful surrounding of pond-lilies. 

VVitli tlie beautifully sheerthin linens in artistic 
colors that arc now to be bought at such reason- 
able prices, there is no reason why tlie coming 
style of hand-made curtains should not be carried 
into the Norwegian drawn-work, called Hardan- 
ger — pronounced Har-dong-er — combined with 
eyelets. This style of work is particularly suited 
to household decoration in its bolder patterns, 
wliile its fine designs are charmingly applied to 
costumes and delicate table linen. 



HARD ANGER EMBROIDERY. 

The main principles of the Norwegian Har- 
danger work are very simple and easily learned, 
p.nA after these have been mastered there is little 




EYELET CENTER 



FUTURE POSSIBILITIES 




SOFA PILLOW IX EY 



734 P 
.RT KMBROIl)..UY 



ciitficultv in copying even L-laborjite patterns. 
The work has for its foundation, as a rule, a linen 
canvas made for the purpose, but any scrim or 
round-cord linen is possible, and the linen or even 
wool etaniines tliat arc so much used now for 
shirt-waist suits are very pretty worked in these 
Hardanger designs. 

The use of colored silks for Hardanger work 
on white or colored materials makes a strikingly 
rich effect for dresses or for housfliold decora- 



tions, such as curtains, table covers and sofa pil- 
lows. The Hcminway Turkish Floss is peculiarly 
adapted for this use, and as it is obtainable in 
all of the fashionable and artistic shades some 
delightful combination of color are possible. 

The work must be done with a dull-pointed, 
long-eyed needle, which carries the silk easily. 
A sharp needle might split the threads of the 
canvas and so spoil the symmetry of the design, 
for on tlie perfect synunetry and regularity of 



E Y E I. ?: T EMBROIDERY 



the completed work depends its successful effect. 

The basis of all Hardanger patterns is the 
square, wliich is made by carrying five threads 
of silk over four thi-eads of the canvas. That is, 
when beginning the design one takes the needle 
and makes a stitch over four threads, and in 
the next opening another, until there are five 
stitches side by side. Then the needle is turned 
and five more stitches are taken at right angles 
to the first row, leaving an unworked square in 
the corner. When all four sides have beer, 
worked there is a small block of canvas left plain 
and unworked in the center. But often to carry 
out the design ones docs not work at first the 
four sides of a square, but only two sides, and 
then again two sides of the next square, thu^ 
forming the effect of a flight of steps. In this 
way the outline of the pattern is indicated, and 
by careful counting the whole design may be 
accurately laid out before a thread of canvas is 
cut. 

A simple design to take as a sample of the 
method of working is the doily illustrated as 
Design No. 800, on page 30. For this one 



*.••* 



••: 





Design No. 537 
CYELKT CKXTERPIECE 



Design No. 535 
DETAIL, OF EYELET CENTERPIECE 

should begin at the upper left-hand corner and 
work five stitches, then skip four threads, then 
five more, and so on until six groups have been 
put in. At this point you turn and work the 
side of a square and then the lower edge. Leave 
the tliread loose here, and go back to the corner 
again. Always remember that 
no knots are allowable in Har- 
danger work ; the new thread 
must be started by a couple 
of over and over stitches on 
the back of the canvas. 

Beginning again at the 
left-hand corner work six 
. groups of five stitches each, 
skipping four threads be- 
tween the groups, and then 
turn to the right and make 
five stitches at a right angle 
to the others, the first one 
coming out of the same hole 
as the last of the last group. 
Now continue alternate 
groups of five stitches, first 
horizontally and then verti- 
cally, until you meet the ones 
at the center of the top of the 
pattern. In this way you 
have outlined one corner of 
the pattern. 

Now carry the same design 
across tlie top, first making, 
or finisliing out, rather, the 
two complete squares that 
form the top of the diamond, 
and then working the same 
six groups of fivestitches each 
and turning the corner and 



AND ITS FUTLRE POSSIBILITIES 



working down the right 
side anotlier six groups. 
When the four corners 
have been worked in out- 
line thus, the inner sides 
of the square around 
the diamond shoidd he 
worked. Opposite the 
little blank space in the 
center of the point of 
the diamond skip four 
threads and then work 
the little stitch which 
forms a complete dia- 
mond. This is done by 
a little cross-stitch over 
four threads. The cen- 
ter pattern should next 
be outlined, the stitches 
being as usual taken, 
five of them, over four 
threads and then five 
over eight, and again 
five over four threads. 
This forms one side of 
the square. 

It is well when a piece 
of work is to be finished 
with a hemstitched edge, 
to do the finishing at 
this stage of the process. 
After this comes the more delicate and careful 
work of cutting threads. In the squares around 





Design No. 536 
SORRENTO EMBROIDERY 



Design No. OM 
EYKLKT CENTERPIECE WITH LACE EDGE 

Conventional Chrysanthemum 



the edge, or in the triangular corners, the four 
threads over which the stitches are worked are 
to be cut across, as close as possible to the 
stitches, with a small sharp pair of scissors. 
The four threads between the groups are not 
cut. After the worked-over threads have been 
cut all around one of the corners, begin the 
pulling of the threads. Wlien these have been 
pulled out you will find a criss-cross of threads 
which are to be woven into solid bands by carry- 
ing the silk over two and under two until you 
come to a solid square. Now carry your thread 
across this solid square on the under side and 
begin weaving again. Thus you will fill in the 
wliole corner like it appears in the photograph 
of the finished doily. 

The method of cutting the threads in the cen- 
ter is a little different. Those opposite where the 
silk has been drawn over four threads are to be 
cut, but where it goes over eight threads they 
are to be left, leaving four threads crossing from 
Mie center of each side. These are woven over in 
the same style as the otliers except that at the 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 




Desifiii \<). 803 
, PIX CISHK)X OK SOFA PILLOW 

c^ter of each bar there is a little picot. This 
picot is made by winding the thread five times 
around the needle and then going on with the 
weaving. 

In the little triangular piece, design No. 
812, page 30, a new stitch appears in the cen- 
ter diamonds. This 
is merely one thread 
carried around and 
caught at each side 
of the square with the 
thread twisted once 
around the needle. 

This same stitch is 
used again in the 
band. No. 802, page 
30. This design as a 
whole or the oddly- 
shaped figures used 
separately is a good 
one for the adornment 
of shirt waists and 
shirt - waist suits, 
where separate motifs 
are wanted. 

For the decoration 
of the front of a 
waist, and also for 
the skii-t, the design 



No. 804 is extremely effective. In it the 
Hardanger stitches are used with the in- 
troduction of little eyelets in the dia- 
monds. These are not cut out, but are 
simply punched with the stiletto, which 
separates the threads to form an open- 
ing, and are then bound around in the 
usual fashion of eyelet embroidery. 

For sofa pillow or pin cushion covers 
there is a peculiar charm about the Har- 
danger work. It may be most effect- 
ively used on an open-weave canvas and 
in a very open design, and the two 
squares may be laced together with a 
cord over a; cover of material of con- 
trasting color. For this purpose the 
sfnmrfs'<Vof tJie cover are made slightly 
Mii.illi r than the size of the pillow, and 
th( l.uiiig cord is tied at the corners in 
fancy bow-knots, as shown on page 28. 
As will be seen by a slight study of the 
various pieces of Hardanger illustrated 
here, the designs may be adapted to use 
on square, round or strip shapes, tiic 
pattei-n being laid out according to the 
shape to be followed. 

Sometimes more, sometimes less of 
the over and over embroidery is used in the 
Hardanger designs, but as this work shows the 
silks to special advantage and is particularly rich 
in effect it is well to choose a pattern where 
there is more of this work. For a border for 
curtains the design used on the bureau scarf. 




Design No. 80j 
BUREAU SCARF OF HARDANGER DRAWN WORK 



AM) ITS FUTURE POSS 1 15 1 LIT I KS 



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]1esign Xo. 
FOU DRKS 





NOTE 






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book 


commenced 


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sii Floss and m 


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sliers 


of this book 


to an cxpci 


t in this class of 


work 


who makes 


a specialty of dealing with ladies in all parts of | 


tiic country 










BlREAl" SCARI 



-.MIUJOIDKRY 



EYELET EMBROIDERY 



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Design No. SOJ 
STRIP FOR A WAIST 



Design No. 807 
CENTERPIECE WITH HEMSTITCHED EDGE 



No. 806, is particularly good. There is enough 
of the openwork for giving the transparent ef- 
fect and the heavily-worked border in silk along 
the edge and around the open squares is easily 
done and effective when finished. The stitches 
in this pattern of embroidery are smoothly laid 
in either Spanish or Turkish Floss, according 
as the material to be worked is fine or coarse in 
weave. Just inside the border is a row of nar- 
row openwork. This is made by drawing four 
threads lengthwise, and catching the cross- 
thrcads into groups of three or four by means 



of one strand of silk tied over the group in a 
laceniaker's knot. The edge of the border is 
closely buttonholed, and at each side of the lit- 
tle openwork band is a row of over-and-over 
work of stitches taken over two threads. 

The stitches of the embroidery around the 
squares all radiate from the center figure. At 
the top and bottom of the figure they are verti- 
cal in line and at the sides they arc liorizontal. 






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Design No. SI 2 
A CORNER FOR A DOILY 



A HARDANGER DOILY 



Ul.tl I 



AM) ITS FUTURE POSS I J? I L I T I KS 




Design No. 808 
A HOUND CENTERPIECE OF HARDANGJiR 



the two directions meeting in a point at each 
corner. In the edge border all of the stitches 
go across the border. In each scallop of the 
pattern around the open squares there is an e^-e- 
let — just a tiny one punched with the stiletto. 
This pattern is, therefore, what one might call a 
judicious combination of three kinds of work. 

Tlie little crosses in the open squares of the 
centerpiece at the top of page 30 are original 
in design. The four threads going each way 
and crossing in the center are woven over with 
the silk, as usual, a little picot being added at 
each side of each half bar, and then a single 
thread of the silk is drawn across each way from 
the corners, and is caught through the work at 
the back. Exactly the same design shows in 
the doily at the foot of the page. 

Tlie old idea that such a pattern, worked en- 
tirely on the principle of .squares, was not prac- 
tical for round pieces is entirely put to rout by 



such an example as the centerpiece on page 31. 
There are many charming round centers and 
doilies worked in Hardanger designs, but the 
design is necessarily finished with a buttonhole 
edge instead of with hemstitching. 

Most elaborate and rich are such articles as 
the sofa pillows illustrated. In both there is 
again the combination of Hardanger and eyelet 
work which is so effective. Such pillow-covers 
as these are always handsome, and for summer- 
house use they are eminently practical, as they 
may be so made as to be easily laundered. As 
described above, the cover may be finished with 
an openwork edge on each side, and so the back 
and front covers may be laced together over a 
contrasting color and removed when cleaning is 
necessary. 

]Made of coloi'cd canvas, say in soft green or 
dull blue, and worked in a ligliter or darker 
shade of tlie same color, eitlier of tlie two de- 



JUN 30 19C5 



P: Y E L E T EMBROIDERY 



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hand corner and work the cable- 
chain pattern — five stitches over 
four threads, skip four antl 
again five stitches all across, 
making nineteen groups. Then, 
skipping two threads outside of 
this, draw two threads across 
the top, and after turning the 
corners of the chain skip two 
threads and draw two. Thus 
you can see the method of work- 
ing. Work down the left side 
nineteen groups of five stitches: 
and turn the corner, then skip 
two threads and draw two. This 
nil! show you where to begin 
tlic center square. 



niAC.OXAL UE 



signs shown here is most strik- 
ing. There is little choice be- 
tween the pattern with the 
Greek cross and the squares set 
up on their poiiits, so to speak, 
and the checkerboard design of 
eyelet and Hardanger work. 
The centers of the eyelet squares 
in tiiis piece of work are iiuuli 
on the order of the Mexican 
drawn-work patterns. The lit- 
tle cable-chain pattern which 
edges each of the Hardanger 
squares is pretty and simple, 
and the solid work in the cor- 
ners of the squares is very rich 
in the heavy Turkish Floss. All 
around these corners and divid- 
ing the whole pillow into squares 
is an open band made by draw- 
ing two threads, skipping two 
and then drawing through. Over 
the center, too, is worked a 
regular catstitch. To plan out 
such a piece of work as this one 
should begin at the upper left- 







Design No. 810 
SOFA CUSHION DESIGNED IN SQUARES 



